Q & As

A recent photo of a herbal ley at Farm Ed demonstration paddock with many species, grazed leaving a decent residual on a long rotation.

After several busy weeks preparing for my talks at Groundswell and FarmED,

I wanted to share some of the questions I was asked, along with my expanded answers.

At Groundswell, Sally-Ann Spence and I spoke on “Permanent Pasture: The Jewel on the Farm,” exploring the value of permanent pasture. We showed how, with care and remedial action, it can become both resilient and productive. We also explained how to manage grass in a way that reduces the need for fertiliser while feeding livestock and supporting soil health.

First question. What remedial action would you take in the current very dry conditions?

After rain dancing all night, the first priority is to reduce pressure on both livestock and pasture.

Make sure livestock have shade. If needed, use yards during the day and graze at night.

Prioritise the water supply: check that flow rates are adequate and there is enough trough space.

Where possible, slow the rotation and leave a good residual, although this might seem impossible! Herbal leys and permanent pasture can help conserve moisture and build moisture-retaining soil organic matter. Their deeper roots can access water lower in the soil profile, while ground cover helps reduce surface moisture loss.

Reduce the grazing area to protect limited regrowth. It may feel counterintuitive, but saved regrowth will matter later, and swards can recover quickly if or when rain arrives.

Introduce supplementary feed and, where possible, feed in yards during the day or in a sacrifice paddock. Avoid feeding in grazing paddocks if you have other options, as cows may take the residual too low. We are used to managing ryegrass, but other species are often less robust. Consider alternative feeds such as brewers’ grains or reject corn, reduce livestock numbers through early culling, and prioritise youngstock so the farm can recover more quickly.

Pre-mow swards intended for hay or silage and alternate this feed with higher-moisture feeds or new leys.

Apply dirty water to encourage growth, but do not graze any earlier than normal.

I don't apologise for showing this illustration again, it seems relevant each year

Second question How do you tackle what appears to be a naturally established monocrop of Yorkshire fog after aerating the soil? My answer is to persist with aeration and grazing, using the “leave a third trampled” approach. Over time, better grasses should begin to come through. This is a slight variation on the “graze a third, trample a third, leave a third” principle. The idea comes from the cold plains of North Dakota, where retained vegetation helps slow harsh winds. In the UK, it is generally acceptable, on a dry-matter basis, for livestock to eat two thirds and leave the bottom third trampled as food for earthworms and soil microbes, although you will need to judge this according to conditions.

With continued practice, soil health should improve and stronger grasses should gradually establish. Biology takes time; chemistry is immediate.

Third question. If an unpalatable rogue plant such as prickly ox tongue takes hold, what can we do? First, find the source. Then minimise soil disturbance after drilling, allow good rest periods, and top the plant so it develops a hollow stem. Water can then collect inside the stem and cause it to rot.

Fourth question. How can you achieve multiple moves in a day? This is easier in dairy systems, where cows already come in twice daily for milking. I recommend using two reels and setting break fences in front of the stock to make moves simpler. Overnight moves are limited, but Batt-Latches are very useful: these timed fence-release systems automatically release the handle and let cows into the next break.

When I was last farming and break-fencing a herbal ley with beef cattle and young heifers, I developed a quick system for moving the live wire. I had worked with live electric fencing since my student days, when turning the fencer off was not seen as necessary. A good pair of wellies and rubber gloves helps prevent shocks. Move the reel at one end, shift each stake in turn, and jiggle the wire to stop stock jumping over it; the job can then be done quite quickly.

Fifth Question What is the ideal pH for herbal leys? When I farmed organically on limestone soils in the Cotswolds, with a pH of around 7, the range of species was remarkable. Sainfoin and lucerne thrived alongside many others. More acidic, clay-rich soils, however, often benefit most from the natural aeration provided by deep-rooting plants such as chicory and cocksfoot. Establishment and longevity can be challenging, but with maintained liming programmes, herbal leys can succeed on clay and lower-pH soils.

If you have anymore questions please send them in and I will gladly answer them.